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søndag 20. mai 2018

Rustic Market Bag

Rustic Market Bag
(Gå til norsk oppskrift)
Crochet mesh bags are a classic, but nowadays these simple market / beach bags, seems to be a popular fashion accessories, as well. When I made my crochet market bag, I wanted that rustic feeling, and decided to use my Springtime Magic Mandala to create a beautiful bottom for the bag and to use a cotton/linen blend yarn.

And here it is; My Rustic Market Bag. Hope you'll enjoy the pattern


If you prefer a PDF-file, or would like more pictures, you can buy the pattern in my Ravelry store for $1. The PDF-download includes a US, UK and Norwegian version.

Rustic Market Bag

You need:
Yarn; Drops Belle, approx 80 g / 192 m (Yarn weight: 8ply / DK / worsted, 20-22 stitches)
♥ Hook, 4 mm
Scissors
Needle

Abbreviations, US terms
rnd = round                           
ss = slip stitch
ch = chain                             
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet  
tr = treble        
ch-sp = chain space   
blsc = back loop single crochet (crochet trough back loop only)  
dc2tog = double crochet 2 together
[example]x3 = Work the instructions inside the [-] as many times as the number after the x.

Bag
If a round starts  with a dc, the first dc is replaced by ch3 or a Faux double crochet. Finish with 1 ss in 3rd ch, if you replaced the 1st dc with ch3
Work a magic ring (or ch4, ss in 1st ch)
1.        Ch2, 1 dc in the ring = 1 dc2tog *ch1, dc2tog in the ring*, repeat from*-* four more times, finish with a sc in 1st dc = 1 ch1-sp, (6 dc2tog)
2.       2 dc in the last ch1-sp (sc), [(2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) in next ch-sp]X5, finish with 2 dc in the last ch1-sp (sc), 1 sc in 1st dc = 1 ch1-sp, (24 dc + 6 ch)
3.        4 dc in the last ch1-sp 2, [7 dc in next ch-sp]x5,
3 dc in the last ch1-sp, finish with a ss in 1st dc, (6 petals)
4.       Please note that you insert the hook in the space between the dc on round 2, not round 3, when you work a dc.Ch1 = 1 sc, ch3, 1 dc in between the last dc in a ch-sp and the first dc in the next ch-sp on rnd 2, ch3, *1 sc i the 4th dc in next petal, ch3, 1 dc in between the last dc in a ch-sp and the first dc in the next ch-sp on rnd 2, ch3* repeat from *-* 4 more times, finish with 1 ss in 1st ch, (12 ch3-sp)
5.       2dc in 1st sc (ch1), 3 dc in next ch3-sp, 2 dc in next dc, 3 dc in next ch3-sp, *2 dc in next sc, 3 dc in next ch3-sp, 2 dc in next dc, 3 dc in next ch-sp*, repeat from *-* around, finish with 1 ss in 1st dc. (60 dc)
6.       1 dc in 1st dc, *ch1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* around, finish with ch1, skip 1 dc, 1 ss in 1st dc, (30 dc + 30 ch-sp)
7.       1 dc in 1st dc, 2 dc in next ch-sp, *1dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-sp*, repeat from *-* around, finish with 1 ss in 1st dc, (90 dc)
8.       Ch1 = 1 sc, *ch4, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc*, repeat from *-* around, but the last time you work ch1, 1 dc in 1st sc (ch1) = 1 ch4-sp, (30 ch4-sp)
9.       Work 1 sc in the last ch4-sp, *ch5, 1 sc in next ch4-sp*, repeat from *-* around, but the last time you work ch2, 1 dc in 1st sc = 1 ch5-sp, (30 ch5-sp)
10.   Work 1 sc in the last ch5-sp, *ch6, 1 sc in next ch5-sp*, repeat from *-* around, but the last time you work ch2, 1 tr in 1st sc = 1 ch6-sp, (30 ch6-sp)
11.   Work 1 sc in the last ch6-sp, *ch6, 1 sc in next ch6-sp*, repeat from *-* around, but the last time you work ch2, 1 tr in 1st sc = 1 ch6-sp, (30 ch6-sp)
12. – 30. Work as round 11.
31.   Work 1 sc in the last ch6-sp, *ch3, 1 sc in next ch6-sp*, repeat from *-* around, finish with ch3, 1 ss in 1st sc, (30 ch3-sp)
32.   Ch1 = 1 sc, 3 sc in next ch3-sp, *1 sc in next sc, 3 sc in next ch3-sp*, repeat from *-* around, finish with 1 ss in 1st sc (ch1), (120 sc)
33.   Ch1 = 1 sc, 1 blsc in each of the next 29 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch75, skip 28 sc, 1 sc in next sc, 1 blsc in each of the next 30 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch 75, skip 28 sc, 1 sc in next sc, finish with 1 ss in 1st sc (ch1), (64 sc + 150 ch)
34.   Ch1 = 1 sc, 1 blsc in each of the next 30 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 75 ch, 1 blsc in each of the next 32 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 75 ch, 1 blsc in next sc, finish with 1 ss in 1st sc (ch1), (214 sc)
35.   Ch1 = 1 sc, 1 blsc in each sc around, finish with 1 ss in 1st sc (ch1) (214 sc)
Rustic Market Bag
~ Camilla ~

14 kommentarer:

  1. Kommer den kjøpte pdf fil som diagram? Skulle så gjerne heklet dette nettet men klarer ikke knekke den skriftlige koden. Klarer å hekle etter diagram. Mvh Benedicte

    SvarSlett
  2. Thank you for the amazing pattern it was easy to follow and I was able to create 4 birthday gifts for my daughters.

    SvarSlett
  3. I love this pattern! Do you have Instagram? I've posted pics of my make and I've credited you but would love for you to see. Thanks

    SvarSlett
  4. I would like to buy the PDF but the Ravelry pattern section is not working, I get an error message on all the patterns I try to download. Could I not buy it directly from you?

    SvarSlett
  5. Hi, I don’t understand round 1 instructions, how to dc2tog when there aren’t any stitches to crochet together? Thank you.


    SvarSlett
    Svar
    1. It sounds like you might be trying to decrease instead of dc2tog? In a dc2tog you are making the two new dcs and joining them at the top. Just stop your first dc while you still have 2 loops, make your next dc, and pull your final yo through all 3 loops left at the end, and you have a dc2tog!

      Slett
  6. Hi! I need help understanding the pattern. First thing, I don't understand the use of the "=" signs as in " 1 dc in the ring = (EQUALS?) 1 dc2tog". Does it means that one equals the other or is it used as a coma? example : (12 ch3-sp)

    Secondly, what means the parenthese in bold caracter at the end of every steps of the pattern. Is it the result I should be having at the end of the step? Or the next step?

    Then, I understand that abreviation ch-sp means chainspace, but what does the number included in the abreviation means, as in ch3-sp??

    Thank you for your help. I'm obviously a beginner, but I love this pattern and really wish to make it right.

    SvarSlett
    Svar
    1. Hi, I was also confused but I decided to tackle the pattern anyway. Mine looks like the picture after some attempts! So the = sign does mean equal. in the example "1 dc in the ring = 1 dc2tog", the author is just noting that the stitches are the same thing. So don't stitch the 1 dc2tog that is after the equal sign.

      For the (#) at the end of every step, that is the total amount of stitches you should have at the end of the round.

      The ch#-sp, that means the size of the chain space. So a single crochet would leave a ch1-sp, double crochet ch2-sp and so on. Hope this all helps!!

      Slett
    2. Thank you so much! This is helping a lot. Gives me confidence to try the pattern! :)

      Slett
    3. Thank you so much! This is helping a lot. Gives me confidence to try the pattern! :)

      Slett
  7. I. LOVE. THIS. BAG! In these times of quarantine, it's the only pattern I want to make. I got a chance to use this bag and it's awesome. Only made a couple of changes (did slip stitches to the middle of the loop at the start of each type and shortened the bag and handle). Thanks for this pattern 😊

    SvarSlett
  8. Hi there! What a great way to reduce waste from grocery shopping! Do you think this pattern could be adapted to create a smaller bag, and if so, do you have any recommendations on how to accomplish that?

    SvarSlett
  9. Hello! It's a beautiful pattern. Can I sell the bag I make?

    SvarSlett
  10. Hello! It's a wonderful pattern! Once you understand the last stitches in every round it's is easy to follow! Can I sell the finished product, mentioning you as the maker of the pattern of course!

    SvarSlett